Tianguis 2008

From April 13th to 16th, I will be attending Tianguis Turistico 2008 in Acapulco. This annual event is Mexico's largest and most important tourism trade show, and it draws participants from all over the country and around the globe. Please click here to read an article that I wrote about Acapulco's surprisingly rich past.

Isla de Ometepe

The inflight magazine of air transat recently published my story on Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua, which I visited in late 2006. Please click on the following link to read it online: Nicaragua's Oasis of Peace

The News Returns to Mexico City

Until it folded in 2003, The News had been a fixture on Mexico City newsstands for decades. This English-language newspaper owned by the O’Farrill family was the main print source of domestic and international news for Mexico's expatriate community. It was also popular among foreign travelers. I never failed to pick up my daily copy when visiting Mexico City. The good news is that The News is back. The paper was relaunched in October 2007 and is reportedly quite similar to its predecessor. I haven't seen a copy yet, but I'm looking forward to reconnecting with The News on my next trip to Mexico. Their website is currently under construction. However, you can subscribe or send a message.

Death of Nick Gallo

I generally don't post announcements like this on my travel blog, but Nick Gallo was a good friend and colleague. Sadly, he passed away on October 11th, 2007, in Athens, Greece, while on assignment for a magazine. Nick was a talented travel writer with a special interest in Mexico. News of his passing, photographs, and links to some of his stories can be found at this website.

Nicaragua's Revolutionary Murals

During the 1980's, when the Sandinista government was in power, hundreds of revolutionary murals were painted on buildings and walls throughout Nicaragua. These vibrant "billboards of the people" celebrated the socialist ideals of the 1979 Sandinista Revolution, which were still fresh in the national consciousness. Sadly, after the Sandinistas lost the 1990 Nicaraguan elections, many of these artistic treasures were defaced or painted over.

Some of the best murals were executed in the handsome colonial city of Leon, which has always been a hotbed of leftist activity. On a return trip to Nicaragua in the fall of 2006, I was happy to see that the murals I had enjoyed almost ten years earlier still adorned Leon's walls. Like the ideals of the revolution, they had faded somewhat, but they were still intact.

My favourite mural covers the entire wall of a large building next to Leon's massive cathedral. A series of panels document the history of Nicaragua from the arrival of Nahuatl-speaking tribes from central Mexico during the 13th century to the toppling of the Samoza regime by the Sandinistas. The final section presents an idyllic future for Nicaragua with two children shown romping in a green field backed by a shimmering lake and smoking volcanos.

Across the street, another mural shows revolutionary leader Augusto Sandino stepping on the heads of both Uncle Sam and one of the Samoza dictators who oppressed Nicaraguans for much of the 20th century. Some of Leon's most compelling murals can be found in the Casa XXI, a former prison that has now been turned into the Museo de Tradiciones y Leyendas. These sombre works depict prisoners being tortured by Samoza's infamous National Guard.

An excellent book on Nicaragua's murals is The Murals of Revolutionary Nicaragua, 1979-1992 by David Kunzle.

Chichén Itzá is still a wonder, but for how long?

When I first visited the ancient Mayan city of Chichén Itzá on Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula over 20 years ago, I was awe-struck by the dramatic scale of its temples, sculptures, and ceremonial platforms. There were comparatively few visitors in those days, and I can remember scrambling to the top of the towering Pyramid of Kulkucán and having the spectacular view of the ruins practically all to myself.

On a return trip in 2003, I was dismayed at the changes that had occurred. Fleets of tour buses idled in Chichén Itzá's main parking lot, and so many people thronged the archaeological site that it felt like a Mayan version of Disneyland. Consequently, I had mixed feelings when I heard that Chichén Itzá has just been named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

Archaeologists are already expressing concerns that a new invasion of tourists could permanently damage the fragile ruins. Some of Chichén Itzá's buildings might eventually have to be roped off in order to protect them, which means that visitors won't be able to explore the site as freely as they can now. I will no doubt go back to Chichén Itzá. But I'm glad that I saw it when I did, before the crowds and parades of tour buses arrived.

The Chichén Itzá archaeological site is open daily from 8 am to 6 pm (5:30 pm in winter). The ruins are least crowded in the early morning and late in the afternoon.

Fridamania Sweeps Mexico City

It looks as if Mexican artist Frida Kahlo may never be able to rest in peace. This year marks the 100th anniversary of her birth, and a new wave of Fridamania has swept over Mexico City.

The Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts) in the Centro Histórico is currently hosting the largest exhibit of Frida's work ever assembled. In addition, the Museo Frida Kahlo or Casa Azul (Blue House) in Coyoacan is displaying a newly opened stash of photographs, clothing, and other Frida treasures. Frida was born in the Casa Azul and later lived there with her famous artist husband Diego Rivera. The colourful house remains much as the pair left it, and the museum has become headquarters for all things Frida.

Fans of Frida Kahlo will also want to visit the Museo Dolores Olmedo , which has luxuriant grounds with free-ranging peacocks plus a significant collection of Frida's paintings. The Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo in San Angel is also worth checking out. This modernistic complex designed by Mexican architect and muralist Juan O'Gorman consists of two studio-houses, one built for Frida and the other for Diego. The gated footbridge connecting these two buildings has become a symbol of the couple's stormy, on again/off again relationship.

The exhibit Frida Kahlo, 1907-2007: A National Tribute will be at the Palacio de Bellas Artes until August 19, 2007. Treasures of the Blue House: Frida and Diego runs unto September 30, 2007, at the Museo Frida Kahlo.